Midline Swimsuit Pattern Sewalong [part 3] – Swim Top – Gingham Hive

At this point if you wanted swim support you should have a shelf bra or sports bra sewn. The actual swim top comes together quickly, hooray! Consult the sizing and grading information on page 7 of the instructions, once you have worked out the desired fit proceed to cut out your fabric. You can see here I chose to make a straight size that will have zero ease (not tight) at the waist.

Straight away we are going to be making a fabric stack–a fabric sandwich if you will. The order is very important! Pin the shoulder seams and side seams in this order:

Swim Top back (right side up)
Swim Top front (wrong side up)
Swim Top lining front (right side up)
Swim Top lining back (wrong side up)

Sew a straight stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance on the shoulder seams.

Sew a standard zig zag stitch at 1/2″ seam allowance for the side seams.

Flip the suit right side out. All the seams are facing back and enclosed, my kind of magic!

I recommend trying on the swim top with your support option (if using) to assess fit. Does anything feel too loose or too tight? Now is the best time to make adjustments.

Trim seam allowance down 1/4″ to reduce bulk.

If making the swim top with shelf bra, slide that inside just how you will would wear it if you put on both layers. I prefer to flip the shelf bra shoulder seam forward to reduce the bulk. For those using the sports bra or no added support the edge finishing steps will be the same process going forward.

Match and pin the layers of fabric at the armscyes and neckband together.

Use an elongated zig zag stitch or serge as close to the edge as you can to secure the layers together.

Time to pull out the narrow elastic to finish the unfinished edges. Elastic chart is on page 5. I recommend pinning the length needed and trying it on the area to be sure it’s not too tight. Once you like the length go ahead and cut to length.

I prefer to wait to finish or adjust the hem until the swim bottoms are done and I can try them on together. If you are happy with your hem as is you may finish it at the same time as the arm band and neckline.

Overlap each elastic piece 1/2″ and stitch to create loops. Mark the 1/2, 1/4 and 1/8 points around each loop and on the corresponding areas on the swim top. Match the pins to the swim top to evenly distribute the elastic to the fabric.

Important! Red alert! The elastic should never be longer than the fabric for this step. If you finish with too long elastic your edges will be wavy and look ill fitting. I have done this when I was not paying attention to guided elastic lengths and assumed that it would even out when I finished the edge (it didn’t). It is very [very very] annoying to unpick once topstitched.

If you have never sewn swimwear I find it helpful to watch a few YouTube videos to visualize how to stretch while you sew on elastic. This video is a few years old, but a helpful overview of how to equally divide elastic and fabric, as well as how to stretch the elastic while you sew.

Sew the elastic to the swim top with an elongated zig zag stitch, pulling from behind and in front while you sew to keep the elastic even with the fabric. The elastic should be stretched just far enough to smooth the fabric.

I highly recommend pausing and trying on the garment with at least the neckline and one armscye basted. Keep in mind the elastic will be folded over during the final step. How does it feel? It’s much easier to unpick here if adjustments need to be made.

For the final topstitching I like to use a wider twin needle (mine is just under 1/4″ wide) with a slightly elongated straight stitch. A zig zag stitch will also work great. Roll the elastic over (you may pin if desired, but I like to hold it by hand) and sew the top stitching with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Pull the fabric as needed to lay flat while you sew.

If you made a sports bra and would like it permanently fixed to the suit slide the sports bra, right side out, into the swim top. Line up the shoulder seams, centering the sports bra straps in the swim top straps. Pin in place. With the swim top facing up, stitch in the ditch (aka stitch on the seam line) on the shoulder seam with a straight stitch.

Optional – you may also line up the side seams and tack the sports bra in place. The sports bra side seam should be placed just below the swim top elastic. Pin in place and stitch in the ditch for about 1/2″ with a straight stitch to secure.

If you have waited to hem the swim top: repeat the same sets as the neckline and armscyes to finish the hem (I elected not to for my sample).